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FORD BLEND DOOR FIX
(EXPLORER, RANGER, EXPEDITION)

If your climate control only has two settings: HEAT and MAX A/C then the chances are this fix will work for you.

The fix was originally developed by FTE member jfranks – YOU RULE!

I paraphrased the blend door fix from jfrank and added some digital pictures I took when I completed the fix on my 1996 Explorer. His original fix document is available here:
jfrank's blend door fix


Step 1:

Remove the glove box to gain access to the plenum. There is a release on the left hand side of the glove box.

 

 

Step 2:

Locate the actuator. The actuator is a flat white box that sits on 4 clip posts on the top left of the plenum. It has a wiring harness coming out of the front.  

 

 

Step 3:

Remove the actuator. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry up the actuator. Pry up the front first and then put the screwdriver under it to pop up the back. (Note: I unplugged the wiring harness when I removed mine. If you also unplugged the wiring harness you will need to plug it back in before doing step 4).

 

 

Step 4:

On the bottom of the actuator there is a “D” shaped pin. Turn on the ignition and move the heater control on the dash. You should see the pin rotate (wiring harness must be attached!). If the pin does not rotate then you have a different problem (bad actuator, terminals corroded, etc). If the actuator does move, set the heater control to full heat and turn the blower on high. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. It moves the actuator to the correct position for the fix.

 

Actuator "D" shaped pin.
 

 

 

Step 5:

Using a small dentist mirror and flashlight, look into the top of the box where the actuator pin goes. You should see that the chamber is half missing. It should look similar to the drawing below:

 

 

 

Step 6:

They all break roughly in the same spot. If it looks like the drawing above then drill a hole (I used a 1/16 in drill bit) in the actuator pin in the location in the drawing below:

 

Step 7:

After drilling the hole insert a metal rod. I used a cut down finishing nail. Others have used a cut down drill bit. Be sure to have about 1/8 in on either side of the pin. Be sure it is snug in the hole.

 

Close up of fix. Drilled out with 1/16 in drill bit and cut down finishing nail.
 

 

Close up of fix - side view.
 

 

 

Step 8:

Snap the actuator back on the box. If the pin won’t go in fully then the rod may be in the wrong place. Remove the rod and re-drill the hole. Reinsert the rod in the new hole and try it again. You may need repeat this step several times until the actuator fits.

 

Step 9:

Once the actuator fits back in the box, try the heat controls. Go from heat to cool. If the temperature changes, Congratulations! You just saved yourself $1000!

 

Step 10:

(Optional) Take the actuator back out and put a spot of glue on the rod to keep it firmly in place.

Good luck!!! (For the lawyers: Do this at your own risk! Not responsible for any damages.)

-- Katzen

Thanks again to jfrank, cobraxp and Ford Truck Enthusiasts – www.ford-trucks.com

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PS: I would like to report back how well this fix is holding up but my wife totaled my Explorer. She jumped it off the freeway down an embankment. Thank God that she and my two young children we OK. That Explorer really held up well. My next Ford will be a Mustang GT (I hope!)